Brief introduction of Xuebaoding Mountain and 2005 climate introduction: Xuebaoding is located in Abazhou, Sichuan Province. It has a base of 4,200 meters. It is located in the valley. It has water, no wind, no avalanche, average snow more than 30cm, minimum temperature not lower than 10 degrees below zero. From the base camp to C1, there are a few short slopes to go through, followed by turtle backs and black corridors. Most of the slopes on the Turtle backs are below 50 degrees, and the slopes on the black corridors are above 70 degrees. Route rope, snow is more than 50cm. C1 camp is located on the ridge, 5100 meters above sea level, 6 degrees above the wind at night, part of the exposed rock and some snow below 30cm, the minimum temperature is about minus 10 degrees. From C1 need to go Camel back, no thick snow, surface layer of ice, a larger gap, the need to pull the rope to protect, rise and fall, from the back of the camel to the peak are all bright ice, the slope of about 40-60 degrees, the need to pull the entire route rope.
A. Technical Equipment Helmet: Petzl Elios
Crucible: Charletmosert Super 12 Full-Length Claw Ice Sheets: Black Diamond Raven 70cm
Seat Belt: Black Diamond Bod
Main lock: Black Diamond Airlock 2 screwgate
Simple lock: Black Diamond Neutrino
Fast hanging: Black Diamond Quicksilver2 Anodized
Falling Device: Black Diamond Super 8
Ascenders: Petzl Ascension
Rope sleeve: Singing Rock 20mm/120cm
Headlight: Black Diamond Zenix
B. Clothing Equipment Jackets: Marmot #4998 Vertex Jacket GTX Two-layer Adhesive Heavyweight Jackets Windproof Slaughter: Marmot #5624 DriClime Flex Windshirt
Sweat Warming Sweatshirt: Marmot Polartec Power Dry
Personal sweat-wicking warm underwear: Craft Pro crew
Down Liner: Ozark 200g Chongrong Down Jacket Inner Trousers: Marmot #1277 Alpinist Bib GTX Clamshell Junior Quick-drying Trousers: Montbell Schoeller Dry Skin
Perspiration warm long panties: Ozark perspiration warm long underwear Briefs: CK 100%coolmax panty socks: Sanfu thickened Coolmax wool socks gloves: Windstopper fleece gloves Gore company gifts, Black Yak GTX gloves hats: Codeba Nowind thin caught fleece hats , Buff
C. The rest of the equipment backpack: Arc'Teryx Neddel 55L, Adidas25L unpaid parcel tents: Mugitivedi Yes2 three quarters account sleeping bag: Camp Arctic 1100
Moisture pad: Therm-A-Rest Z-lite
Mainland seats: No brand 150*150cm
Hiking boots: La Sportiva Tibet
Snow Cover: Black Diamong GTX Frontpoint Gaiters
Trekking poles: LEKI Makalu Titanium
Glasses: Custom Ray-Ban big curvature myopia sunglasses knife: Spider Dragonfly
Kettle: Tiger0.8L double warm kettle climbing table: SUUNTO X6
About technical equipment:
The technical equipment really does not understand, can only talk about some of their intuitive feelings. Petzl Elios helmet is really a good thing, 315 grams of weight is very light, size adjustment is also very convenient, wear a helmet and pull the hat on the jacket Do not feel any influence, like all Petzl's products, the work is very fine, although it feels very thin but has confidence in its impact resistance.
Charletmosert Super's Super 12 and BD's Sabretooth are the more common types of crampons. Although the most used domestic ones are CAMP, the CAMP-type crampons are easier to loosen while the Supper 12 and Sabretooth are not easy to loosen. Compared to Super 12's workmanship is among the best, of course, the price is not cheap. See the Sichuan team there are many Korean crampons, the brand forgot, feel the tender are afraid to use, certainly not confident to wear force.
The main lock, 8-letter ring, simple lock, and quick-hanging are all BD's, and they are all aluminum alloys. The weight is lighter than the previous old styles. If you switch to Simond, these are just a few things. It is estimated that the weight will increase by more than 100 grams. I know that this kind of configuration is very tasty in the eyes of experts, but it is at least very practical and light.
Personally, I like the design of BD Raven very much. I feel very comfortable in my hand, and the weight is just right. I am also confident when I do braking. BD's Bod belts are professionally designed for climbing, and the connection of the thighs is Buckle, do not wear feet when wearing, this will not affect the shoes and crampons what, a lot of convenience, the belt is soft, more easily compressed, worn outside the jacket when used comfort is better. Just weight or More than 400 grams, but there is a simplified version of Bod Alpine, the weight is much lighter.
There are two BD headlights in the home. In addition to the Zenix, there is also a Gemini. Although the main lamp of Zenix is ​​much brighter than the conventional LED, the resolution is still a lot worse, especially in the snow. Used in the field, the resolution is not very ideal, the next time it is still on the snow-capped mountains with Gemini, better.
About clothing and equipment:
The snow-covered top of the snow dome is usually not very harsh and the temperature is not too low. However, considering the snow-capped mountains, it is still carrying heavy-duty hard-liners. It is fortunate to bring back, and it is snowing and hail this year. What is the weather? The Marmot Jackets are designed for alpine adventures and alpine skiing. The connection between the hat and the clothing is a zipper. There are two upper and lower seats. The upper seat is for wearing thick. For hats or helmets, the following seats are for normal use. The fabric is scratch resistant nylon. It is softer than most two-ply plastics. It is more comfortable to wear. The elbows and the back and the bag are in contact with each other. Considering the elasticity of the fabric, there is even a pocket with a hose on the inside of the back. Haha, if it comes with a water bag, it can be carried without a punched bag. The design of the sleeves is very long, even if the ice climbing can guarantee The bowl is not exposed, and the inside of the collar adds a thin layer of velvet for comfort, but it is gray, so when the temperature is low, the velvet always feels a creamy breath and there are three pockets on the inside. It is specifically designed for loading heavy snow mirror design.
The Marmot's trousers are too strong. Two layers of GTX are glued. The front is hung to the chest and has a large pocket. The back is high to the back. The back straps on the back cross, full zips on both sides plus all the Velcro, and the inside of the ankle. Kevlar, I do not think it is necessary, because wearing this kind of pants is definitely wearing a snow suit, plus the weight and thickness of Kevlar have gone up, it also brings trouble to wear snow jackets. Unfortunately there is no hip there Open the zipper, so it's a bit of a hassle when it's large
Craft's Pro crew's perspiration is not as good as that of Coolmax, but the warmth and comfort are much stronger, and the back is long. It is very suitable for snow-capped mountains and is very close to the body. Together with the same Marmot Polartec Power Dry, it is strengthened. The warmth is also enhanced by the wicking effect. Marmot's DriClime jacket is added to the outside. Everyone is accustomed to calling this kind of clothes Windshell. It's no problem to use it as a coat during the day when the base camp has the sun and when traveling back and forth from the nanometer base camp. In the cold when the night plus down jacket on the line, anyway, which three clothes add up very thin and personal (I always joked that I was wearing three underwear), but also not bloated, when the top down jacket replaced Jackets on the line.
The costume equipment that satisfied me most was my Montbell Schoeller Dry Skin pants, which was one of the most used garments in the entire process. I traveled from Shanghai to Chengdu, entered and took a base camp from Chengdu, and wore them in the base camp. This trousers, only the top two days for punch pants. Schoeller's fabric has just been popular in the past two years, as one of Softshell's main materials, Schoeller is indeed worthy of praise in many places, Schoeller fabrics and ordinary fleece Compared with the material, the weight difference is not too big, there is a similar thermal effect, but to a certain extent can be wind and water repellent, and there is better flexibility, the fabric's antifouling properties are also good. We adapt to the two camps Heaven, I just added a snow jacket directly to the outside of this pants, stepped on the deep Qi snow, climbed out and shook it all right, do not have to worry about water (some snow surface after the sun is There is water). When the camp was big, it didn't feel cold, although there was only Coolmax inside.
At home, there was a #5000 Marmot Plasma Parka 700 down jacket, but this time the chicken had no need to slaughter a knife, only the Ozark's thin down liner, and I thought there was an almost complete set of Ozark when I started playing outdoors. It only took a piece of Ozark's stuff to finally realize that for me, the degree of understanding of the equipment was inversely proportional to the extent of Ozark's use of things (Ozark's people would certainly see a lot of anger here, rabbits, later Ozark. I won't give you a call for specials. Hey, actually I still have a lot of Ozark's stuff, but most of them are casual equipment because I think it's not suitable for 0254 and 0288 hardshells and MT99's high mountain account. Snow Mountain). In fact, this down coat liner was originally bought for his wife. After I bought it, I found that I was wearing a tighter suit, but the size was just right, because the sleeves were very long. So I went to Beijing to practice ice climbing and this time to the snow covered roof. It seems to remember that 200 grams of cashmere (may be 150 grams), 80% of gray goose down, fluffy less than 500 Peng that kind of ordinary, but in the coat when the coat wear enough, When it's cold in the evening Face kit Jackets also do.
It's a pity that I didn't bring my Bridgedale Summit this time, otherwise I wouldn't feel frozen when I waited for the 1-hour rope in the snow in the black channel nest. I wondered if I would return to Shanghai with two pairs of Bridgedale or Samrtwool welter socks. Good to fill this kind of temperature is not too low snow mountains and winter vacancies on foot.
Codeba's No Wind fleece cap has completed the task satisfactorily, and the hat is very thin, it is suitable for wearing in the helmet, and can cover both ears. Although it looks ugly, it is very practical. There is also a very bad place, because this hat is a German brand, and I suspect that not the German head is big or my size is small, the front edge of the hat is completely covered and the glasses are covered, and it feels good to wear without a helmet. The helmet didn't feel good. I remember that there was a friend on the forum who talked about No Wind's fleece and windproof but it was not easy to get wet. It may be that the hat that wasn't sweating yet was wet, and it didn't experience this.
About the rest of the equipment:
The little bird Needle 55L which I got 2 weeks before I traveled, I liked it. When I was carrying 15kg or less, I performed perfectly, and my weight was not heavy. The fabric was also waterproof, and all the waterproof zips were on the snow. There is no need to worry about getting wet. The design of the belt is very easy to tighten. This is the belt that I carry around the most easily tightened after inserting the fasteners. It is just that the webbing is too long and is blown up in the wind. After hitting the body, although not hurt, but the old feeling was whip pumping, even more depressed when the mountain actually found a line of cracking, it may be when the mountain was picked up by the nephew, the Tibetans started to pack too much, out of the The unbelievable trust in the quality of the bird's bag is unbelievable to everybody. There are still people who ask if the bird bag is genuine. NND, depressed.
It was a wise move to use the animal husbandry Gaudi's Yes2 to the base camp. This three-season account with no wind ropes allowed me to spend four comfortable nights at Base Camp. The breathability of most high mountain accounts is comparable. Poor, and Yes2 accounted for more than 1/3 of the yarn, so the gas condensation that was exhaled at night was tied to the outer bills and turned into bad memories of water and frost that didn't fall on the face, and breathable tents. You can also slow down the mountain reaction. At night, it is not easy to have a headache. The position of the top of the account is equipped with a gauze net pocket. The four corners are hung up. What is very useful for putting the headlights, but it is easy to fall down. The hook design is too loose. The large and small layout is very reasonable and practical. On the big side, we have picked up 4 big bags. The small side is used for putting on shoes and tableware, what the body's heat is, and most of the snow underneath the account and The ice melted, but there wasn't any water seepage at the bottom of the waterproof 3000. When you camped, you pressed the snow in place of the nails. The feeling after stepping on the nails was of course not strong, but you added some snow to it. On the second day, the frozen state of Bonbon is hard, though Camp wind is not big, but this 7-corner, lightweight tent I guess eight months later the wind is no problem on to nail jelly.
Because the temperature of Xuebaoding is not very low, this time it was not the one ready to transfer the CAMP Arctic Plus 1300 sleeping bag, but another Arctic 1100. It was indeed enough and it was warm every night, including the C1 ventilation. The night in the tent, but Arctex 1100 fabric Pertex S043 significantly worse than the Arctic Plus 1300 fabric Pertex P627UE, one is easy to leak down, the other is poor water repellency (of course compared with the P627UE), its Third, scratch resistance is poor, not picky, in general, the cost-effectiveness of domestic CAMP is still satisfactory, can be used to S043 can also be considered worthy of the people spent money.
When I went out, I added the Z-lite of Therm-A-Rest, which is expensive, but it is really a good thing. The surface of the nest is very deep. When the heat from the back is turned into water, it accumulates in the recess. Nest, will not wet the sleeping bag, and the heat insulation effect is also satisfactory, folding design is very personal, my is 130cm (when bought is 183cm was cut into 4 sections after I became 130cm) After being folded, it is tied on the side of the bird's bag (on the other side, it is placed in the floor mat). The whole mat is only over 300 grams. It is really light.
I feel bad for my Tibet. Xuebaoding’s rotten road has made it completely different when it goes uphill. Because the snow from the base camp to the Turtle back is very shale, and weathering is very serious. Small and sharp pieces of rock, very very wounded shoes. And Tibet's toe tip is not wrapped with a wear-resistant rubber layer, so the tip of the toe has been marked with large and small holes in many places, even though 2.2mm thick leather is not yet As for being cut through, but some of the wounds are still deep to worry about, when the choice of Tibet once considered the problem of no wear rubber layer on the toe, but did not expect the consequences will be so serious. Also soaked in the snow so much After many times of freezing and thawing on the surface of the leather, the waterproof layer of the surface layer has been exhausted and must be immediately repaired. Other aspects of the game are still perfectly fulfilling my expectations, a solid design, and a perfect fit for the feet. When I stepped on the tip of the stone in deep snow many times, I didn't turn my feet. When I kicked the snow in the deep snow to make the steps, it was very good. The warmth was relatively good, and the tie-type crampons were also very good. After all, it's La Sportiva's stuff, and the price is a stock. But next time I'm on the snow-capped mountains I'm going to prepare double-layered plastic boots. In addition to being less prone to wear, at least every morning for at least half an hour, the shoes will be frosted on their feet. Only then can you tie the laces.
New Year's Day was sacrificed at Xiaowutai, so this time it was a newly purchased BD GTX snow jacket. It was a good thing. It was not because GTX could prevent the accumulation of frost inside the snow jacket, but it was the most important thing to pay for it. Part of the design just to avoid the ills of a few cash sets I had previously used. First of all, the straps under the snow cover are of strong synthetic leather. In order to strengthen its strength, we can see that the middle layer of synthetic leather is also added. Wear-resistant fiber, most snow jackets are made of ropes or webbing to make the straps, but the rope and the webbing are easy to break, and second, it is easy to form ice rakes on the soles of the feet. Third, it is difficult to bind and fix them with gloves. , And the use of leather and synthetic skin can avoid the above situation, especially very strong and durable, conventional snow sleeve connection with a zipper, with a zipper and a partial Velcro, this pay snow cover is directly with Velcro on the lower leg The front of the bone is glued and joined, because the zipper used to be stuck with small impurities several times before, so I really like to use Velcro only, and this is the elastic cord used to tighten the upper part of the snow cover. Operation comparison , but too tight will affect the blood circulation, the lower half of the snow cover is like a high-strength nylon Kevlar, it is estimated that the crampons are not easy to kick it, the upper part is thin nylon plus GTX, the whole pay snow Very fit, wearing the Montbell Schoeller quick-drying trousers when the size is just outside, very comfortable, wearing my Marmot with Kevlar pants outside the leg pants are slightly too tight, there is no loosening throughout the life cycle, the foot did not accumulate Ice or snow scorpion.
Because there is 200 degrees of near vision, but do not like to dare to use contact lenses at high altitudes, so this time with my sunglasses that are paid in the American glasses city custom, this pay Ray-Ban rack curvature is quite large, The mirror is also large. After wearing it, there is very little light leakage between the upper and lower sides and the left and right sides. It is close to the light leakage from the side of the alpine mirror. According to the friend's introduction in the store, this is the maximum curvature they can make with the 200 degree myopia. The myopia piece has been dyed with dark gray to strengthen the light protection. Although the frame is metal, the outer layers of the two feet are plastic, which can prevent sticking at low temperatures. This is one of my favorite equipments. Every time you bring it to the mountains (not usually drive, especially driving, because the arc is too large, the vision is a little bit biased), but this time it was a mistake to bring him to the snow dome. I did not expect this year's snow to be so big. From base camp to C1, it has been basically in the snow, and the sun is very good. This kind of snow is more reflective, and although this anti-leakage light is good, it is not polarized (no way, no polarized myopia can be found) , so the back of the road has eyes I couldn't stand it anymore. I kept tears. I was really worried about the occurrence of snow blindness, so when I was walking, I tried to look at the colorful front jackets and watched them. I closed my eyes immediately after the rest and only went to C1. Tent tears no longer flow I just feel relieved, and then determined, the next time you climb snow mountains say what you have to pay to buy big snow mirror sets outside the use of myopia, this pay only to stay in the base camp sunglasses.
The LEKI Makalu Titanium's trekking poles have always been my favorite. This is a trumpet. It originally had two roots, and the other one was lost in a pathfinder activity. (It's too depressing. We're at about 70 degrees. The shrubs pulled down and walked for a moment. The trekking poles found hanging on the wrists were missing from the bottom of the trekking poles. They couldn't find them for a short while. Didn't you walk a few steps and heard the guy behind you say that the drunkard was the trekking pole you lost? God, oh my god...), I bought the Super Supermar with a suspension, but still liked this Makalu Titanium. Although it is not shock-absorbed, it is light, and it is relatively easy to carry.
The spider Dragonfly was my favorite of the three Bucks and two spiders. It was customary to use it with a lifesaving whistle on a paratrooper rope hanging on the neck of the head. It has been a few years ago. Fascinated by knives, this Dragonfly was purchased at that time, using AUS8 steel, hardness is generally the same, but the strength is very high, it is not easy to rust and easy to maintain, knife handle is not G10 textile fiber, just general The plastic handle has a short blade length of only 5cm, 2mm thick, but it is very wide, the tip of the blade has been drop-type, the design of the handle is very special as the curved moon, the whole knife is small and exquisitely beautiful, but in reality The use of thorns, rakes, cuts, cuts, drapes and other technical movements can be very good, but the action of cutting is not suitable because it is too small. There are few opportunities to actually use this knife, remember there are times except in Tianmushan When the road was entangled with vines and used to get out of it, nothing else was used to cut apples. Hey, it was mainly for shows. But this time in the scary tent of C1, I was very glad to bring it, in case The tent was blown down at least for the first time Use it to get away from the tent.
Tiger's insulation pot was bought in Singapore more than two years ago. I remember that there was no domestically made Tiger in Shanghai (Tiger now has a factory in Shanghai, and the selling price is also similar to that of a thermos). The import price is very expensive, so it took only When the equivalent of more than 200 yuan to get it, excitedly called the wife on the spot to call for rewards. This kettle has been with me to a lot of places, did not let me down, the basic 12 hours to maintain half hot, within 24 hours Can maintain half temperature, 0.8L size is just enough for one person for a long time or the amount required to carry the crown, spout design is simple and practical, never water leakage is also easy to clean, because it has been developed after each drink water, dry Because of the habit of lids and spouts, they are not covered by frozen lids.
The SUUNTO X6 was originally brought back from Hong Kong by a friend. It cost only HK$2,300, which was much cheaper than buying at home. However, I could only say that it was a waste because I haven’t read the entire manual until today. Many functions such as weather forecasts will not be used at all. I always comfort myself that I can measure altitude, temperature, pressure and direction. So I haven’t thought of buying a GPS so far, because I know that it’s my hand. no good.
(Drunken 2005.05.19)
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